Forget the trench coat clichés. The women who get it right in London this time of year are doing something far more specific — and far more copiable than any magazine has ever told you.
Not What the Magazines Tell You
Every year, the fashion press publishes some version of "what to wear in London in spring" — and every year it involves a
trench coat, some sort of floral, and a reference to the Chelsea Flower Show that makes it feel very specific to a
version of London that most people don't inhabit.
Here's what London actually looks like in May, from someone who spends a lot of time on its streets with her eyes open.
The Weather Problem
May in London is genuinely unpredictable. You will have one day of 22-degree sunshine followed by three days of grey
drizzle. The women who look good in London in May have stopped fighting this and started building their wardrobe around
it.
The solution is layering that removes itself gracefully. A dress that works alone and also works under a light jacket. Trousers that work with a fine knit and also work with just a tee. The outfit needs to be functional across a temperature range — and it needs to still look good when you peel a layer off and carry it to lunch.
What's Actually On the Street
Leather trousers in May. This sounds wrong and looks completely right. The slightly cooler May temperature means leather
trousers — which become unwearable in July — work beautifully. Paired with a simple top and a light layer, they read
effortlessly dressed.
Trainers with everything. London's commitment to a good trainer is consistent across seasons. The difference in May is
that the trainers being worn are cleaner, whiter, more considered. The luxury trainer — understated, well-made, in white
or cream — is the London shoe of the moment.
The long skirt. Not floral, not summery — something more structural. A long skirt in a mid-weight fabric, in a neutral or a strong single colour, with a fitted top. This is the outfit I see on the women who consistently look interesting, and it has essentially nothing to do with the season.
The Colour on London Streets in May
Less than you'd expect. For a city in the first proper warmth of the year, the palette stays relatively restrained. Burgundy is still everywhere. Camel. Cream. The odd cobalt that reads like a genuine commitment to joy.
"London dresses for the day it is, not the day the forecast promised."
The One Thing That Gets It Right Every Time
A good coat, whatever the temperature. London in May is still a coat city — lighter than February, but a coat. The women who understand this stop worrying about the rest.
Mia Fontaine
Fashion Editor · Lumia Outfits
